A city is defined and identified by numerous elements associated with it, whether topography, language, heritage, etc. Along with this, food is a significant aspect. What people eat tells a lot about the lineage and culture of a region. For instance, Galouti Kabab of Lucknow depicts the Mughal influence on the city, while Delhi’s Chole Bhature narrates the story of spicyphile Punjabis. Vada Pav of Mumbai is one such delicacy which defines the culture and lifestyle of Mumbaikars.
More than the dish, it is the people who make a food item synonymous with a city. Mumbai’s Vada Pav is one such tale of heavenly amalgamation between the lifestyle of Mumbaikars and its quick to eat feature. As it is fondly called, Batata Vada Pav is named after the Portuguese word ‘batata’, which means potato. Interestingly, the word pav is also a Portuguese word which means ‘sweet bread’. Wrapped in paper, the city of dreams still carries the Portuguese legacy, which began in 1534 when the Portuguese took control of the city to 1661 when it was gifted to Britishers as part of the dowry of Catherine of Braganza, daughter of King John IV of Portugal. However, it is just the name that signifies Portuguese culture; everything else about the dish is as Indian as possible.
As Legend has it
As per Census 2011, Mumbai is one of the most diverse cities, with a migrant population of more than 43 per cent. People from various places in India travel and settle in the city of dreams, searching for better livelihood opportunities. In the middle of the twentieth century, textile mills were in full swing in the city, and most of the people, who moved to the city in search of work, used to work in these mills.
This was when a famous politician of Maharashtra and founder of Shiv Sena Balasaheb Thackeray appealed to the people of Mumbai to become entrepreneurs, which inspired a person named Ashok Vaidya to come up with the concept of Vada Pav. Vaidya chose Dadar railway station for this, which was the central hub of people travelling to textile mills situated mostly in Worli and Parel. As per Anil Kumar, a local cab driver in Mumbai, “This was the turning point in the story of Vada Pav. It quickly became one of the most loved delicacies for people who regularly travelled for work.”
The next chapter of Vada Pav unfurled in the 1970s and 80s when Mumbai suffered significant textile strikes in the city, and large numbers of these textile mills were shut. Amidst this crisis, many workers chose the path of Ashok Vaidya, and those who lost their jobs began selling Batata Vada Pav at local railway stations in Mumbai. Hidden in Portuguese nomenclature, the city found a dish which would go on to become its soul.
JumboKing: Vada Pav with a twist
In 2001, a man named Dheeraj Gupta, Founder, JumboKing, saw an opportunity in the growing market for Vada Pav. He introduced a quick-service restaurant chain for Vada Pav to become the desi alternative to brands such as McDonald’s and Burger King. JumboKing gave options such as Schezwan Vada Pav and Achari Vada Pav, giving the local dish a different flavour. However, when the brand decided to scale the business in 2008 and introduce this in other 13-15 cities in India, the plan failed as it did not resonate with consumers the same way in Delhi, Hyderabad, Bangalore, etc.
Vada Pav is a staple food of Mumbai, but JumboKing failed to instil the same excitement amidst people of other cities. In 2015, the brand repositioned itself and introduced Indian burgers with international appeal. Vada Pav is still the entry-level product of the brand and is a hit in stores in Mumbai. Mumbai is the home of Vada Pav, and the journey of JumboKing proved that even if everybody rejects the dish, it will still be a favourite of Mumbaikars.
Still fresh and famous
Even half a century post its inception, the dish holds the same place in the hearts of Mumbaikars. Kumar, who moved to Mumbai from Uttar Pradesh searching for work, told Team Urban Update that Vada Pav still holds the same value because it is still probably the most inexpensive food in the city. He added that people who come to the city in search of work don’t have enough resources, and due to its topography, local trains are the only way to reach work on time. This is the primary reason people are in love with Vada Pav. It is readily available at almost every local railway station of Mumbai and at a very reasonable price (currently 15 to50).
Vada Pav has gradually become the go-to food of locals as it is easy and quick to make, which enables people to save money and time. The balls of mashed boiled potato with add-ons of onion, green chilli, green coriander, etc., dipped in chickpea batter and fried to perfection, is the key ingredient. Mashed potatoes are the major source of carbohydrates which energises people and prepares them for the day. However, as per the locals, the secret ingredient, which differentiates the dish’s taste at different locations, is a type of powder masala (tastemaker) with which the Batata Vada is garnished. Interestingly, the local dish has undergone evolutionary changes in 40-50 years. People have experimented with the recipe and formulated different versions of the dish, such as Samosa Pav, and Kheema Pav.
Even after undergoing several changes, the traditional Vada Pav is still the first love of Mumbaikars. This love is evident among people from all walks; Bollywood celebrities, ministers, etc., have openly talked about the dish and their love for it. It is not just a “fast food”; it is almost a necessity of the city for those who leave home early for work and need the energy to work through the day. Even after the arrival of burgers (mainly McDonald’s) in Indian market in the 1990s, Vada Pav did not lose its charm and is still the first love of Mumbaikars.
It is interesting how a local dish can become the identity of a city at such a level that life without it is hard to imagine. Vada Pav is the daily routine of Mumbai, and this is not it. The country also celebrates World Vada Pav Day on August 23 every year. People from all walks of life get out of their homes and celebrate their love for the dish. The local delicacy has carried the legacy of Portuguese and taste of India for many years and will continue to tickle the taste buds of Mumbaikars and others alike.
Even after undergoing several changes, the traditional Vada Pav is still the first love of Mumbaikars. This love is evident among people from all walks; Bollywood celebrities, ministers, etc., have openly talked about the dish and their love for it. It is not just a “fast food”; it is almost a necessity of the city for those who leave home early for work and need the energy to work through the day