A city shaped by time and Brahmaputra – Guwahati

omebody has said “how should I turn the pages of my life, everyone wants to read me as per their choice”. These beautiful lines aptly describe the city of Guwahati. Whatever Guwahati may be today with some even describing it as ‘epitome of emerging India’, deep within the surrounding hills and the Red River are tales that go back a thousand years. In the Nilachal Hills there is a rock inscription. It reads “This temple of the illustrious Lord Balabhadra has been constructed by Maharajadhiraja Sri Surendra Varman.” The inscription is estimated to date back to the 5th century AD, which makes it one of the earliest found in North-East India. It signaled the existence of a city Guwahati for more than 1500 years of recorded human history. Historians also believe that the inscription is proof that the city has been home to a sizeable settlement for at least two millennia. The people from North-East rue the fact that the region has rarely figured in the imaginations of the bulk of Indian historians, and yet it has stood the test of time in its voyage through the ages.

What is in a name?
There have been debates about the origins of the name Guwahati. Different explanations have been put forth by historians at different times as to its origin.
Gunabhiram Barooah, a nineteenth-century Assamese intellectual, was of the opinion that in all probability, the name came from ‘guwa’, or areca nut, trees of which are found in abundance across the city. While archival records do not give a clear picture when the name changed from Pragjyotishpurato Guwahati, historians have found the first mention of the latter in Tabaqat-iNasiri, a book by 13th Century Persian historian Minhaj-i-Siraj, that chronicled Bengal ruler Ikhtiaruddin Malik’s conquest of Guwahati in 1256. Later, the Ahom kings of Assam began using the same name.

The Brahmaputra River
Any narrative of Guwahati is incomplete without Brahmaputra. It has remained the lifeline of the city since its existence. It’s not just a river but witness to history. The banks of the river, in medieval times, were the site of many battles between the Muslim rulers in the west and the established kings of the east. One of the architectural marvels of the Kamrupa era – the SilsakoBridge in modern North Guwahati -was the site of the battle between the Kamrupa king and the Afghan Muhammad-i-Bakhtiyar in the year 1206 AD. The SilsakoBridge, however, sustained damage in the 1897 Assam earthquake.
It was also the setting for the battle between the Ahoms and the Mughals, which culminated in LachitBorphukan’s crushing victory in 1671. The fortifications by the river, along with the ItakhuliFort, repulsed the Mughals decisively. The river has thus stood as a vanguard of history, protecting the citadel of Guwahati for thousands of years.
The Modern City
Moving on to more recent times, in 1853, Guwahati was declared a municipal region. It again became a ‘city’ by modern definition. In the same year a devastating fire burnt down large parts of the city, prompting the dwellers to petition the government for better housing facilities. The government accepted the demands of the local population and procured bricks from present-day Bangladesh.
The first burnt brick factory in Guwahati was set up in the Durga Sarovar area. In 1874, in honour of the visiting Viceroy Lord Northbrook, the Northbrook Gate was built at Sukreswar Ghat on the banks of the Brahmaputra River. It is designed on the lines of the chapel in King’s College London. The rectangular structure had 12 arches. While the arches of the gate have Gothic elements, the spires are inspired by Indian temples, making it one of the finest examples of Indo-Gothic architecture.

The firsts in the city
The first wholesale general store was opened in 1828 in the city. Bijulee Cinemaghar brought cinema to Guwahati. The Sheikh Brothers established their bakery in 1885 and legendary Assam leader Deshbhakta Tarun Ram Phukan bought the first bicycle of Guwahati in early 20th Century. It is said the day he got the bicycle, almost the entire city assembled to look at this unique machine on two tyres and huge applause followed when he began pedaling. He incidentally was also the first man in Guwahati to own a car.
By 1899, the municipal limits of Guwahati had been described for the first time. Ulubari, Rehabari, Chandmari, Rajgarh, Barpul, Bhangagarh, Kharghuli, Santipur and Bhutnath made up the length and breadth of Guwahati. By 1901, it was a city of 14,244 people, residing in a total area of 4.5 Sq. Km. Almost 120 years later today Guwahati has a spread area of 216 Sq. Km.; it has a population of over 1 million.
Places to visit
For anybody who lands in Guwahati, the first destination is always the famous Kamakhya Temple atop Nilachal Hills. This is where Goddess Kamakhya is worshipped. It is a unique temple that has no idol. But the believers tell you that one can feel the divine presence in the sanctum sanctorum. Nilachal Hill is also home to many others temples. While coming down from the hill you get a fantastic view of the Brahmaputra. It will leave you in awe. Another big attraction is Shiva temple on the island of Umananda. You can either take a ferry to reach there or the state tourism department transport. The to and fro journey in an open ferry is truly an out of the world experience where one can feel the might of the Brahmaputra. One can do a lot in Guwahati. During a morning walk along the Brahmaputra when the river is silent, one can see ferries transporting people, cattle, bicycles across the river; the birds singing and the sun rays bouncing off the ripples; one turns poetic and one’s day is made. If you are fond of shopping, during the day you can visit Paltan Bazzar and Paan Bazzar. You will find Asomiya silk sarees and many other emporia that sell handicrafts items. But the big fun comes in the evening. One must visit Fancy Bazzar. As the name suggests one can find all kinds of stuff from the entire North-East region. The place is bubbling with activity. From street entertainers to street food it’s a shopper’s delight. An interesting fact about the place is its name; it got its name from ‘phansi’ (Hanging). Originally the market was set up around a public gallows where British Raj hung rebels and criminals.
Today Guwahati is one of fastest growing cities in India and works as a window to the Central Government’s ‘Act East’ policy. Fast paced modern development has completely changed the face of this city, making it one to watch out for in anew emerging India – restless and energized. Yet, deep within the surrounding hills and the Red River, are tales which take you back thousands of years.